I am showing you my TOP 3 PICKS from NOMOS GLASHÜTTE!
Nomos TANGENTE 35mm
The Tangente (Ref. 139) is the embodiment of NOMOS design philosophy and was part of the first launches in 1990. The stainless-steel case measures 35mm in diameter with a height of 6,2mm and a lug-to-lug of 45mm. On top of the case sits a sapphire crystal which is framed by a super thin bezel with an unobtrusive crown on the side – which makes this a good choice for an everyday watch in terms of the materials used.
The dial is a galvanized white, silver-plated dial that serves as a clean backdrop for the typical Bauhaus-style typography hour-markers.
At 6 o clock sits a sub seconds dial with circular groves that fits in perfectly with the rest of the dial.
The minute, hour and seconds hands with their blue tempered color contrast just enough to add a pop of color to the dial without making it look out of place with the rest of the simplistic design.
Inside ticks the inhouse calibre ‘Alpha’ that has to be wound at least every 43 hour which is amazing considering that you get all this for a price of 2.180 USD, and you can see it all through a sapphire caseback! You can instantly tell that this is a movement straight out of Glashütte with its typical stripes, the perlage and the swirls – Nomos also offers a less expensive steel caseback version for 1.900USD!
NOMOS ORION 38 DATUM
My next pick is the Orion 38 Datum Reference Number 380.The steel case measures 38mm with a height of 8.9mm and it measures 47mm from lug to lug. The lugs slightly taper towards the strap which distinguishes the Orion as a more classic looking watch compared to the Tangente.
Additionally we have a domed sapphire crystal that adds to the classic or ‘old- fashioned’ vibe of the Orion. The dial is white, silver-plated with sleek stick hour markers that are gold plated. Addtionally we have a sub seconds dial at 6 o clock as well as the so called ‘long- distance date’ below it.
When flipping this watch around, you can see the beautiful Glashütte Movement through the sapphire caseback. Inside of the Orion beats the inhouse calibre DUW4101 with a 42h power reserve.
The Orion is a great choice for all who love simplistic designs but want to keep it more classic as this one does not feel as ‘Bauhaus-y’ as the Tangente. A big plus is also the added date and the ‘two-tone’ look on the dial which gives it more warmth. So even though the Orion with its price tag of 3060USD is about 40% more expensive than the Tangente and look similar I`d still lean more towards the Orion given all its extras.
NOMOS AUTOBAHN NEOMATIK 41 DATE
The Nomos Autobahn Neomatik 41 Date is probably the most german sounding watch of the entire NOMOS collection.The 41mm steel case with a domed sapphire crystal on top has a height of 10.5mm and a lug to lug width of 48mm which I would still consider a rather thin watch given all the things packed into this.The theme of the ‘Autobahn’ which is the german equivalent to motor- or highways (but partially without speed-limitations), runs like a thread through the entire dial design of this 4.800USD watch.
On the edge of the curved, rhodium plated dial, you can see the finely printed minute markings. Further inside sit the hour markings, applied in the same way like the Tangente with its even numbered steps from 12 to two and so on ..
At 6 o clock we have a very unusual looking big date, displaying 3 dates at a time.
The sub seconds display above the date is also curved, adding more depth to dial with a small 60 printed on top. The orange colored seconds hands against the silver/grey background kinda of remind me of a fuel gauge with its contrasting colors, adding more to the Autobahn theme.
But the main highlight here is definitely the bright blue hour scale stretching in 240 degrees from 8 to 4 o clock. Unlike the Tangente or the Orion which are both manually wound watches, this Nomos Autobahn has the automatic calibre DUW6101 built in. An automatic movement with a date displays and a 42h power reserve. You also get a 100m water resistance making this watch really something for every day and every occasion!
It is definitely on the larger side with its 41mm and with a price tag of almost 5.000 USD you would definitely have to think twice before pulling the trigger on this given that you only get this with a fabric strap. But the fact that you get a very unique but definitely not corny looking watch from a top german manfuctarer straight outta glashütte with a big date and a 100m water resistance is definitely something that speaks for itself.